Sergiev Posad

Thursday, May 18, 2017

Today, we opted for a trip into the countryside beyond the Moscow suburbs to visit Russia’s spiritual home, the monastery of Sergie Posad.  Founded in the 14^th century by St. Sergei, a monk who became Russia’s patron saint, the active monastery has been a pilgrimage site for the nation since shortly after Sergei’s death.  Tsars and other members of Russian royalty walked to the monastery from Moscow (It took our bus an hour and a half to make the trip!), spending nights on the road in a series of specially-constructed palaces along the way!  

In addition to living a life of humility and service, Sergei was credited with miraculous cures and support crucial to the military success of a local prince in battle against the Tatars.  At one point, the Blessed Virgin appeared to him and promised that the monastery would never be destroyed, despite the fact that monastery compounds regularly served as fortresses during times of conflict.  During one siege, when there was no water available within the walls, a spring miraculously sprung up.  In the more recent Soviet times, when many churches and religious institutions were demolished, St. Sergei was closed, but not destroyed.  

One of the draws for modern pilgrims who visit the monastery is the saving water that still flows there; they come to wash their faces and hands with it, drink it, and take it away in plastic bottles and jugs.  

Perhaps the most important spot in the compound is the tomb of St. Sergei, whose uncorrupted body was exhumed years after his death.  The tomb is now encased in silver in a corner of the Trinity Cathedral, the oldest stone church in the Moscow region.  The frescoed interior is the work of medieval Russia’s greatest artist, Andrei Rublyov and his students, and is the site of continuous memorial services, with pilgrims lining up to light candles, kiss the tomb, pray and chant.  

We also visited the large interior space of a church that had originally served as a refectory.  While there, we learned quite a bit about some of the traditions of the Russian Orthodox Church, thanks to Olga, our local guide.  She drew our attention to the elaborately carved gold-leafed wood frames of the iconostasis and, as she discussed the traditional placement of icons in five rows, she said that the names of orthodox churches are not written on the structures.  Instead, they are depicted in the icon placed on the bottom row, second to the right of the central door of the iconostasis. In pointing out the carved choir screens in front of the iconostasis, Olga reminded us that all music in orthodox services is a cappella, as the belief is that the human voice is God's most perfect instrument.  Olga also explained the meaning of the lowest crosspiece on orthodox crosses and crucifixes; it is a reference to the two thieves crucified on either side of Christ.  A slanted crosspiece indicates that one thief wound up in heaven, the other in hell; if the crosspiece is horizontal, it’s meant to bring to mind the choices the living still have to make.

Despite the many tour groups and individual pilgrims visiting the monastery, the compound is a serene and beautiful place, especially on this gloriously sunny and warm day.  The grass is green and the well-tended flower beds in bloom.  The monastery buildings, whether stark white or ornately decorated in a variety of styles, somehow form a harmonious whole.  Occasional small plots hold the graves of monks (and one Tsar, Boris Godunov), and we passed by a small gathering led in prayer by a monk at the flower-bedecked grave of a greatly revered and recently deceased monk.  Throughout the day, some of the 300 monks and 800 seminarians and religious students walked among tourists.  

Of course, at this site of traditional religious importance, contemporary pilgrims were there, too, easily identifiable as they frequently stopped to bow, make the Sign of the Cross, touch their heads to the walls, light candles, and kiss icons.  Olga brought home to us the significance of the monastery and St. Sergei when she told us that, two years ago, during the commemorations of Sergei’s 700^th birthday, tour guides were requested not to bring groups to Sergeiv Prosad for a period of two months; the town could not even accommodate the expected crowds of religious visitors.

We had lunch in a refectory that is part of the monastery’s hospitality facilities, then had free time to wander on our own and find more vantage points from which to enjoy (and photograph, of course!) the stunning monastery complex.  Given the white walls, green-roofed towers, colorfully decorated exteriors, golden domes, star-studded blue domes, soaring bell tower, flowers and well-kept walkways, finding pleasing views was not a problem!

We headed back to Moscow, arriving back at the ship during the late afternoon for a little R and R before dinner and departing for a late-night visit to the center city.

Moscow by night was lovely on this cool evening.  Red Square, with the domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral, the towers of the Kremlin, and the long façade of the GUM department store was like a postcard, as were the views of the city and bridges from water level as we cruised on a boat tour along the canal and river.  We also returned to Sparrow Hill to take in the panorama of the city from above.  This time, the tourists on the wide expanse of the overlook were joined by parked motorcycles and their riders playing music, drinking, and partying.

It was about 1:00 am by the time we returned to the ship; Moscow has traffic jams even in the wee hours!